Namenlose Kante on Bockmattli

Tuesday evening I get a message from Bert: “… are you up for a bit of an adventure? …” At 6.30 am the next morning station we set off to Bockmattli. To climb the route on the Namenlose Kante… and ps! ” … are you up for a bit of an adventure?” was probably a silly question! I’m always ready for an adventure.

Bockmattli has fascinated me for some time… first saw it when Barbara and I walked around the Wägitalersee a few months ago. Then again when we were climbing at Brüggler.

The ‘Namenloser Turm’ (Nameless Tower) is our target today. And specifically the route called ‘Namenlose Kante’ (Nameless Ridge) – a grade 5b climb, which can be reduced to 5a by using a single point of aid – in this case a bolt hanger.

The walk to the base follows the path to the Bockmattli / hut. Above us are the ‘Grosse’ and ‘Kleine Turm’ (Big and Small Towers). We bypass these towards the ‘Nameloser Turm’ where it’s tucked away behind the Kleine Turm. At about the height of the hut, we veer off on a climber’s path, to the start of the ‘Namenlose Kante’. Looking for the blue dot shown on the route description to indicate the start of the route. When we spot it, we find a place where we can sort of stand, and start gearing up. First item on is the helmet… always the helmet first. No sense having a rock fall on your head while you’re putting harness and climbing shoes on, or having a cup of coffee or whatever. Once you get below the rock face, put the helmet on.

Bert leads off. He did the same route a few weeks before with a friend who lead the climb. This time Bert wants to lead it. I’m happy to follow him. Hold the rope while he does the leading. The wind is whistling down the valley. I’m guessing that this could be the tail-end of the hurricane (Liam or Maura) that battered the UK over the weekend. Whatever it’s called, it’s bloody unfriendly! When I climb I’m slightly out of the wind, so warm up. Then I’m back on belay duties. This time I’m sheltered – a bit warmer. When I belay from inside the ‘grotte’ (cave) I really feel the effect of this wind. Seriously thinking about putting more layers on. But can’t do that while holding the rope. Fortunately the climbing is at a very civilised grade. Moving easily we make our way up. The fun will come higher up, where the route becomes more challenging and ‘airy’…

The 5a pitch does not offer any serious challenges and pretty soon we are at the base of the hard 5b pitch. Bert leads off. Takes his time. Works out his moves. Then he moves smoothly onto the rib. Safety. He continues upwards on easier ground. Now it’s my turn. I move up to where the hand and foot holds disappear… give it a really hard look. Know what I have to do to get onto the protruding rock rib and safety. Climbing in my approach shoes. Thinking that maybe I should have climbing shoes on… then I move, holding onto the point of aid for support, I manage to straddle the rib, feet precariously planted on a couple of small pieces of rock sticking out below the rib while hugging the rock – a bit like leaning onto the fuel tank of a large motorbike. Once I’m settled, I get the protection out and start moving up.

The rest of the climb is relatively easy and not too much longer we’re on top of the tiny flattish surface on top of the tower. We traverse across the knife edge ridge which connects the Namenloser Turm to the main ‘Bockmattliwiese’ and the mountain path down. Find a safe and comfortable spot and share a sandwich. Then, while Bert gets onto his business call, I coil the two ropes. When he’s done we make our way down, stopping briefly at the hut which is open on weekends only in the summer months.

Bert drops me at Pfäffikon station. No time for a beer today. We both have late afternoon appointments. Another perfect mountain day ends with a train ride back to Zürich!

Bockmattli – more information

For more information see the Namenlose Kante (Nameless Ridge) route description on the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) website. A topo of the route can be found in the Schweiz plaisir ost guidebook.