In a fog … from Göscheneralp to Bergseehütte (2370m)

We didn’t think we’d end up in a fog. But we did. The weatherman, or woman, not sure which one it was, predicted some rain in the afternoon. Barbara and I thought we’d be done with the via ferrata by then, and a bit of rain on the way home won’t do us any harm.

So off we go, first by train to Göschenen and then by bus to Göscheneralp, to tackle Bergsee Klettersteig. Also known as Krokodil thanks to the crocodile-jaw-like rock formation at the top of the climb the via ferrata sounded like a fun outing, and we’ve had it on our minds for some time to do.

Alas, it was not to be… and this became apparent (or perhaps not), soon as we arrived at the base from where we’d start our approach to the climb. We were pretty much in a fog from the moment we started. Occasional glimpses through the cloud revealing some of the beauty of this area. Especially the impressive Dammagletscher (Damma Glacier).

We nevertheless set off for Bergseehütte, where we agreed we’d make our final go/no go decision.

The walk is particularly pleasant as it weaves upwards through the ericaceous zone. Late summer / early autumn flowers abound and the colour of the vegetation is beginning to take on an autumn sheen of golden browns interspersed with vivid greens and yellows.

Every once in a while a gap through the clouds reveals yet another stunning view of the mountains surrounding us.

Then we start trudging uphill steeply. We take our time. We’re not in a hurry. Both of us already know, even if we haven’t said it out loud, that the via ferrata will have to wait for another day. Another hour or so, and the hut comes into view.

With the fog swirling around, it’s got cold outside, so we decide to sit inside with our coffees and Nussgipfel. As we sit down, Barbara’s cousin’s daughter walks in. Barbara hasn’t seen her for many years, so she’s not sure it is her, but she nevertheless approaches the girl, who also recognises Barbara! Small world. Don’t see each other for years, and then you bump into each other in a mountain hut in the Alps… they chat for a while and then we get on with drinking our coffees. 

We check with each other if we’re going to do the ferrata, but decide that it’s not worth it. It will be wet from the fog, which will make it slippery, and the views are now completely covered over. Another day is the decision. We consider walking back via another route, but discover that this would take longer than we have, if we want to catch the bus back from Göschenenalp. We take a quick walk towards where Bergsee should be but the fog is so thick we can’t see a thing beyond what we see in front of us.

On our way back we again take our time. We take pictures of flowers. We take pictures of an almost ‘infinite lake’ disappearing into the fog. I try a few boulder moves on some of the gritty rock outcrops. We’re enjoying our day despite being in a fog.

Göscheneralp, Bergseehütte, Krokodil – more info

Bergseehütte is an SAC hut, open (normally) from June to October. The ‘Krokodil’ (Bergsee Klettersteig) is best climbed in summer months. The bus service from Andermatt to Göscheneralp only run during the summer months.